curiouswombat: (york)
[personal profile] curiouswombat
One thing that I promised myself I would do on the short visit to York to pick up D-d’s possessions was to visit the current exhibition at Barley Hall - Hamlet to Hollywood – a history of fashion from film.

D-d also wanted to see it – and so we went together on Monday and had plenty of time to look at everything with very few other people around.

I took a lot of pictures – if you are interested in history, film/TV, Colin Firth or costume generally (looking at [livejournal.com profile] gillo, [livejournal.com profile] kortirion and [livejournal.com profile] ningloreth amongst others) then do click for

The costumes covered the period from Elizabeth to WW2; there was a lot of information about clothing of the period, and good source material – as I have come to expect from Barley Hall. The costumes were used to illustrate, and also there were comments about why the costume looked as it did, or where ‘short-cuts’ had been taken to achieve the right look as long as one didn’t look too closely.

I didn’t take pictures of everything, and took them using natural light, so some could be sharper, to be honest. Also I probably should have taken more close-ups – but if you have an interest in this subject and live within reasonable travelling distance of central York I would really recommend going.

Before we get to the specialist exhibition, here is a family group of medieval costumes which are part of the permanent exhibition –

general medieval

Anyway – here goes – this is a dress made for Cate Blanchett as the young Elizabeth 1st. It is not really historically accurate – Shekhar Kapur’s Indian background influenced the costumes – he wanted floaty and dreamlike.

Elizabeth - Cate Blanchett

There were other a couple of other costumes of the Tudor and early Stuart period – including a ‘white wedding’ dress which the info pointed out was pretty inaccurate as wedding dresses as such did not really exist at the time, and a bride would wear her most sumptuous dress – usually not white. Film-makers however use the ‘white dress’ as a recognisable symbol. I didn’t take a picture of the dress – but this is the Headdress that went with it – just because I liked it.

headress

D-d has been interested in the Civil War and Restoration period for a long time. She had avidly watched ‘The Power and the Passion’ – and so was thrilled to get this close to Rufus Sewell’s costume.

Rufus Sewell The Power and the Passion

Nearby, showing a more continental touch, was one worn by Heath Ledger as Casanova – she wasn’t bothered about this one at all.

Heath Ledger Casanova

Now we move around the corner to Keira Knightley playing Georgiana duchess of Devonshire. We had some insider knowledge on this costume – one of D-d’s History lecturers from York had been an advisor and said it had been very difficult to keep them historically accurate as Miss Knightley wanted the dresses altering to a more Keira-friendly look. We wondered which of them won with this one.

I only took a medium close-up – but you can see the dress on KK if you scroll down this page, and the back of it in the Casanova picture above. What fascinated us most was that the trim appeared to have been, to quote D-d, attacked by a horde of rabid hamsters. We wondered if this was to give a particular effect in the film – but it is less obvious there – so perhaps the fabric has just frayed badly since? Anyone know?

Keira Knightley Georgiana

There was a nice selection of wigs, too.

I’m sure there were a couple of other things before this next display – but if so I’ve forgotten what they were! Because this really is what it looks like –

Pride & prejudice

Probably as close to Colin Firth’s crotch as one is likely to get… The information pointed out that the fabric of Jennifer Ehle’s dress is actually a quite bright modern patterned cotton – made up inside out so that what we see is the paler ‘back’ of the fabric.

Still in Jane Austen mode – this was worn by Emma Thompson in Sense and Sensibility –

Emma Thompson S&S

And this rather glorious hat is from the 1995 film of Persuasion.

Elizabeth Elliot Persuasion 1995

There were some other rather glorious hats, too. Including some that are not part of the film costumes and were there for us to play with – but you’ll just have to use your imagination to help you visualise what either of us might have looked like in a Tudor ‘box’ type headdress.

Now - a little closer again to the current day. Judi Dench as Miss Matty in Cranford –

Judi Dench Cranford

Both D-d and I thought this gives a real sense of Dame Judi herself.

Nicole Kidman in Portrait of a Lady – very clearly taller than Dame Judi! And corseted down to a 19” waist.

Nicole Kidman Portrait of a Lady

I think the one in the background is from Larkrise to Candleford. Same area – this time costumes for Sweeney Todd. [livejournal.com profile] kortirion - I saw the blood stains in the second picture and thought of you!

Sweeney Todd waistcoat


Sweeney Todd Blood stains

These are Maggie Smith’s, from Downton Abbey –

Downton Abbey Maggie Smith

With a close-up of the hat;

Downton abbey MS hat

And a couple from House of Elliot – remember that?

House of Elliot

Finally – another chance to get up close and personal with Colin Firth – sort of. Costumes from The King’s Speech.

Kings speech CF

D-d and I concluded that he was not a great deal bigger than he had been in P&P.

Helena Bonham Carter’s fur-trimmed coat was there too – but I didn’t notice that I’d wobbled a bit, so the picture was blurred. Here is a close-up of part of her costume though –

kings speech HBC closeup

And a dress worn by ‘Queen Mary’ –

Kings speech Queen Mary


queen Mary closeup

We spent well over an hour looking at them all at our leisure. There were also books etc – and some illustrations for stage costumes. This was for a production of Midsummer’s Night Dream in the 1880s.

fairy costume

Does it make anyone else think ‘Legolas in fancy dress’?

Date: 24/06/2011 12:14 pm (UTC)
shirebound: (Default)
From: [personal profile] shirebound
corseted down to a 19” waist

Golly! Ooooh, it's great to see all this detail. Thanks for sharing.

Date: 24/06/2011 12:23 pm (UTC)
From: [identity profile] curiouswombat.livejournal.com
It's a pleasure - it was a fascinating exhibition.

Date: 24/06/2011 12:18 pm (UTC)
From: [identity profile] rachel2205.livejournal.com
Wonderful pics! Wish this'd been on when I was still in York! :)

Date: 24/06/2011 12:25 pm (UTC)
From: [identity profile] curiouswombat.livejournal.com
I'm wondering if it is a travelling exhibition - it seems a pity not to show it elsewhere. But Barley Hall do do a good job of this sort of thing.

(Barley Hall was also hosting a group of school children - they were, in costume, happily eating their packed lunches in the great hall!)

Date: 24/06/2011 12:44 pm (UTC)
From: [identity profile] cairistiona7.livejournal.com
What an interesting exhibit... it's always so fascinating to see the real costumes from films.

Date: 24/06/2011 05:21 pm (UTC)
From: [identity profile] curiouswombat.livejournal.com
It really was - totally fascinating. Pity there was no LotR - but then they were using the costumes to illustrate real historical stuff...

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Date: 24/06/2011 01:05 pm (UTC)
From: [identity profile] ningloreth.livejournal.com
Wonderful pictures! I love the way they improvise, like using the fabric inside out. That dress from Larkrise looks really... kinky without little Julia Sawalha in it!

I really would like to see it, and I've just spent ages wrestling with the website, trying to find out how long it's on for. In the end I called, but only got an answerphone!

Date: 24/06/2011 05:32 pm (UTC)
From: [identity profile] curiouswombat.livejournal.com
The Larkrise one did look somewhat kinky!

Barley Hall usually have such exhibitions for a year - and it started in May. I'm sure it'll certainly be there all summer anyway, and certainly worth a trip for you. I'm not sure whether you know where Barley Hall is - I can give simple instructions if you need!

Date: 24/06/2011 01:09 pm (UTC)
gillo: (aristocrat)
From: [personal profile] gillo
I love this sort of exhibition - they often do something similar at the Sewing for Pleasure show at the NEC every March, so I have in fact been just as close to Colin Firth's crotch. ;-)

Lovely pics - and you can see why the costuming of Cate Blanchett as Elizabeth fills me with fury. (Their use of Durham Cathedral as a typical Renaissance palace also makes me see red.)

Thanks for sharing!

Date: 24/06/2011 05:36 pm (UTC)
From: [identity profile] curiouswombat.livejournal.com
Yes the Cate Blanchett dress wasn't just the wrong fabrics - which I can excuse - but they didn't look like the right ones, either.

Worth a trip to York next time you're in Selby - and, unlike the Castle, you can do Barley Hall in quite a short time.

Date: 24/06/2011 01:10 pm (UTC)
From: [identity profile] azalaisdep.livejournal.com
Wow - that took me back to lots of happy Sunday evenings in front of BBC costume drama!

(And I think if you made your suggestion re. the last picture to either your!Legolas or My!Legolas, you'd get an Elven Death Stare...)

Date: 24/06/2011 06:00 pm (UTC)
From: [identity profile] curiouswombat.livejournal.com
It was a real trip down Memory Lane.

you'd get an Elven Death Stare...

Wouldn't you just? But it still gave me the giggles!

Date: 24/06/2011 01:24 pm (UTC)
From: [identity profile] engarian.livejournal.com
Oh, marvelous. I hope you don't mind if I capture a few for my costumery folder.

Re the rabid hamsters, that's bad care of the trim when the dress was cleaned and moved. The dress fabric isn't a problem, but that trim can pull fairly easily (as you see).

Loved the medieval pieces you started out with, they helped my current project a lot just seeing the drape of the shorter tunic.

If they were LOTR costumery, I'd pass them on to my costumery chat group, but unfortunately they are across the board, and not film specific. Wonderful though. I always adore looking at costumery.

- Erulisse (one L)
known to hang for hours at the V&A costumes when in London

Date: 24/06/2011 06:03 pm (UTC)
From: [identity profile] curiouswombat.livejournal.com
Feel free to take as many as you like. LotR stuff would not have fitted the brief - which is a pity, really!

PS - the Castle Museum in York has a big collection of costume and textiles too - a good excuse to get out of London...
Edited Date: 24/06/2011 06:07 pm (UTC)

Date: 24/06/2011 01:25 pm (UTC)
jerusha: (Default)
From: [personal profile] jerusha
Wow! Those costumes are awesome.

Date: 24/06/2011 06:03 pm (UTC)
From: [identity profile] curiouswombat.livejournal.com
It was really interesting to get the chance to look at them close up.

Date: 24/06/2011 02:59 pm (UTC)
From: [identity profile] ukamikanasi.livejournal.com
Pretties! I love looking at costumes. :)

Date: 24/06/2011 06:04 pm (UTC)
From: [identity profile] curiouswombat.livejournal.com
It was really good fun.

Date: 24/06/2011 02:59 pm (UTC)
From: [identity profile] pfeifferpack.livejournal.com
Lovely! What a great exhibit. I loved the embroidery on the waistcoat even with the "blood". The only thing better than a exhibition of costumes is to get a look at the actual clothing from the time period in question. The Metropolitan Art museum in NYC had a small look at those when I was last there a few years ago. They did a proper job of displaying them too.

"attacked by a horde of rabid hamsters" indeed! I cannot imagine why they chose to do that.

Thanks so much for sharing. I always love to get these glimpses.

*hugs*
Kathleen

Date: 24/06/2011 06:10 pm (UTC)
From: [identity profile] curiouswombat.livejournal.com
The Castle Museum in York has a big costume collection - but these were a bit different. Erulisse says she thinks the trim has just frayed really badly - a sign, I think, that it was only expected to last a couple of takes.

Date: 24/06/2011 03:02 pm (UTC)
From: [identity profile] gamiila.livejournal.com
What a wonderfully interesting exhibition! You'd have had to drag me out of there, had I been there with you.

Date: 24/06/2011 06:13 pm (UTC)
From: [identity profile] curiouswombat.livejournal.com
We were there for a good long time - especially as we both read every word of the excellent information.

Date: 24/06/2011 03:35 pm (UTC)
From: [identity profile] ayinhara.livejournal.com
That looks like a fascinating exhibition.

Date: 24/06/2011 06:16 pm (UTC)
From: [identity profile] curiouswombat.livejournal.com
It was. Barley Hall is not very big - it was a medieval town house - but they always give such good information with any of their exhibits that you can spend ages looking.

Date: 24/06/2011 03:35 pm (UTC)
From: [identity profile] nutmeg3.livejournal.com
What fun! And I certainly do remember House of Elliot. I liked it a lot, in fact.

Date: 24/06/2011 06:17 pm (UTC)
From: [identity profile] curiouswombat.livejournal.com
Seeing the costumes from House of Elliot, and some of the others, was like seeing old friends.

Date: 24/06/2011 04:34 pm (UTC)
From: [identity profile] bojojoti.livejournal.com
Very enjoyable! Thank you for sharing.

Date: 24/06/2011 06:19 pm (UTC)
From: [identity profile] curiouswombat.livejournal.com
It's a pleasure. It was such a nice mixture - the costumes and then the proper story of the clothes they were made to represent.

Date: 24/06/2011 05:44 pm (UTC)
From: [identity profile] clodia-metelli.livejournal.com
Such pretty, pretty things. I do really rather love that purple dress - but the corseting must have been painful.

Date: 24/06/2011 06:20 pm (UTC)
From: [identity profile] curiouswombat.livejournal.com
It's a gorgeous colour, that dress. But I'm amazed she could breath corseted in to 19".

Date: 24/06/2011 08:30 pm (UTC)
From: [identity profile] estelcontar1.livejournal.com
LOL it does. No wonder you had a great time. That looks like a great exhibition.

Date: 24/06/2011 08:58 pm (UTC)
From: [identity profile] curiouswombat.livejournal.com
As Azalais points out - if he ever heard that I would certainly be treated to the Elven Death Stare!

It was fascinating - with very informative background information, too.

Date: 24/06/2011 08:46 pm (UTC)
From: [identity profile] inzilbeth-liz.livejournal.com
What a wonderful exhibition. Thanks for sharing.

Date: 24/06/2011 08:59 pm (UTC)
From: [identity profile] curiouswombat.livejournal.com
It was really interesting - although I'd have been even happier with the odd bit of leather armour and so on!

Date: 24/06/2011 11:49 pm (UTC)
From: [identity profile] kortirion.livejournal.com
Heehee - bloody costumes! Oh yes, I know about those, but I bet they could afford to have duplicates made in case pick-ups were needed for the filming.

As to the 'rabid hamster' look, I suspect it was intentional - I can't see why cleaning and storing/moving would have affected the trim that badly, and if it did, why pick that dress to be displayed?

I remember that about the time that film was being made there was a vogue (possibly only/mainly in London) for frayed fabric being used for semi-formal wear - ie: mens' jackets had frayed cuffs, collars and pocket edges etc. I think perhaps the costume designer was giving Keira's garments the contemporary twist Miss K desired... they certainly gave no 18Cth considerations to her eye make-up, and little enough beyond a nod to her hair-styles - decisions that were bound to be hers, particularly in the light of her demanding that the dresses themselves were not completely accurate.
Edited Date: 24/06/2011 11:50 pm (UTC)

Date: 25/06/2011 11:00 am (UTC)
From: [identity profile] curiouswombat.livejournal.com
Yes - the bird's nest of loose threads on the Georgiana dress seemed pretty inauthentic to me, but quite intentional.

I was interested in the 'stagecraft' aspects as well as the detailed historical information - there was a costume worn by Liz Taylor in, um, Aida? Or a film in which she played an opera singer performing Aida? The fur trim - which looked as it it was tiger, or possibly zebra, from a slight distance, was actually white nylon, with stripes painted on rather crudely. And the use of a bright nursery fabric, inside out, for Elizabeth Bennett's dress and so on...

It is not an enormous exhibition - Barley Hall is not very big - but there is no sense of being hurried, at all, and no barriers between you and the costumes. The exhibition will certainly be on all summer, if you have a free afternoon to nip up to York!

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From: [identity profile] kortirion.livejournal.com - Date: 25/06/2011 03:27 pm (UTC) - Expand

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Date: 25/06/2011 01:46 am (UTC)
From: [identity profile] cbtreks.livejournal.com
That must've been so interesting. Did you want to touch everything and look at the seams and buttons and embroideries up close and with your fingers? I'd have had to keep my hands shoved in my pockets! (That last really is reminiscent of Legolas.)

Date: 25/06/2011 11:00 am (UTC)
From: [identity profile] curiouswombat.livejournal.com
They were happy for us to look up close - just not touch... but yes, it was hard not to!

Date: 25/06/2011 09:26 am (UTC)
From: [identity profile] wormwood-7.livejournal.com
Lovely costumes. Wouldn't have minded some of them.

Date: 25/06/2011 11:02 am (UTC)
From: [identity profile] curiouswombat.livejournal.com
The Emma Thompson one looked comfortable - and I would have loved the Maggie Smith one, definitely including the hat.

Date: 25/06/2011 12:55 pm (UTC)
From: [identity profile] lindahoyland.livejournal.com
That looked to be fun!Thanks for sharing.

Date: 25/06/2011 04:58 pm (UTC)
From: [identity profile] curiouswombat.livejournal.com
It was a fascinating way to spend a couple of hours.

Date: 26/06/2011 06:27 pm (UTC)
From: [identity profile] ellynn-ithilwen.livejournal.com
I love the photos! :) I have to send a link to this post to a friend of mine who adores old/medieval/movie/other special costumes.

Date: 26/06/2011 06:56 pm (UTC)
From: [identity profile] curiouswombat.livejournal.com
Oh do - feel free.

Date: 29/06/2011 05:25 am (UTC)
From: [identity profile] raingirl26.livejournal.com
Oh wow, that is wonderful! I love this kind of thing. And they are so up to date in their reverse sort of way.

And now I have to go back to our local video store called Movie Madness. It's been around for many years, but I hadn't been in the store in a long time. They are at a new location and they have just these types of displays right in the video store!! I was shocked at how much they have - I will do my darndest to go get photos and post them with a couple of weeks.

Thanks for you work posting these. What a treat.

Date: 29/06/2011 07:20 am (UTC)
From: [identity profile] curiouswombat.livejournal.com
Oh do see if you can take pictures! Simply looking is interesting, and this was particularly so because the whole exhibition was based on the historical accuracy, or otherwise, of the costumes. I was so pleased that we found time to go, in amongst the packing, the broken car, and D-d saying goodbye to so many friends.

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